This feature was originally published on October 22, 2012.

Meet Pergamino, a new cafe in Medellin’s trendily dizzying El Poblado district. “Pergamino” is the Spanish word for “parchment”, the outer shell that covers green coffee before dry milling.

As a cafe name it’s apt, amounting to a sort of winking titular evidence of Pergamino’s remarkable vertical integration and the vision of its owner, Pedro Echaverria, who is himself a coffee exporter, roaster, cafe owner, barista, and in-a-pinch dishwasher (if it gets busy). He’s also the son of a Colombian coffee producer, and serves several of his family’s coffees as part of Pergamino’s carefully considered roasting menu. The cafe itself is gorgeous, an impressive amount of what they’re serving is delicious, and there’s a sort of “wow” factor to the whole experience; we’d hang out there every day if we could.

A boyish and witty 20-something with a business degree from Tufts University, Pedro Echavarria shares his name with his father, who has for decades owned and operated the Santa Barbara coffee estate. Pedro (the younger) sources several of the coffees served at his cafe; Pedro (the senior) is an affable, smiling, well-dressed and carefully coiffed older gentleman who counts ...